What is about afternoon tea that feels so elegant and civilized?

Perhaps it is the tea tray, loaded with tiny delicate sandwiches and desserts. Maybe it’s the ritual of pouring the steaming liquid from an exquisite pot into paper thin ceramic cups. Possibly, it’s because a table set with the good china, lace and linen looks so enticingly romantic. Or because so many little girls have happy memories of childhood tea parties.

Tea requires a certain behavior. One would never take a traditional “tea” with the TV set on. Afternoon tea requires attention to those gathered around the table. It is a curious ritual plucked from centuries ago, that still charms the 21st century woman, and sometimes, even the open-minded, 21st century man.

Two tearooms in the Niagara region offer traditional tea experiences, and both are owned by women with a passion for their work and relentless energy for creating memorable experiences. Anyone lucky enough to have tried both settings would certainly have spent two wonderful afternoons.



The White Linen Tea House in Wheatfield

White Linen Tea House in Wheatfield blends the hand rubbed patina of old world charm with the shine and gloss of an upscale boutique. The main tea room is decorated with antique framed vintage photos of glamorous women, and the tables are anchored by a parlor fireplace. There are two other tea rooms in the house, and both new and antique gifts available in little shop areas arranged on two floors. Everywhere the eye turns, there are beautiful arrangements to look at, and the open kitchen allows tea takers to view spotless contemporary counters where their parties are being prepared.

The White Linen Tea House was created by Linda Kloch, who has a history of successful commercial kitchens. Kloch was once the owner of the Country Cottage Restaurant in North Tonawanda, most notable for its large platters of hearty breakfast and lunch foods, and the theme of the restaurant which was played out in cute little pig-and-piglet decorations throughout.

When Kloch sold the Country Cottage, which had grown to a staff of about 40 people, she found she missed the service business. She created the White Linen Tea Room out of a pristine house on Shawnee Road, and then opened the barns in the back as a co-operative for antique dealers, with a cafe there and a florist coming soon. Those who come by can count on spending a few hours shopping. The intent is to further the luxurious experience by enticing people to linger.

“I love pampering people. I love to please people. I think it’s my calling in life,” she confided with an easy grin.

Compared to her former restaurant and its 37-person staff, Kloch has a more concentrated three-member staff to help her serve high tea. They are dressed in pressed white shirts and black pants, giving the service an elegant European feel.

“I want people to feel special when they leave here, and I want them to never forget it,” Kloch said.

Each tea service begins with small pieces of carrots and broccoli and pretzels with a creamy dip, and then tea drinkers are presented with a huge box of teas from which to select. When the three-tiered tea tray comes, it includes four sandwiches — cucumber, egg salad, chicken and albacore tuna — and desserts like tiny lemon squares, peanut butter balls and tarts. There are also traditional scones in two flavors that are served hot with freshly made Devonshire Cream on the side. The cream melts into the flavors of the hot scones, and a bite is bliss.

It is, in short, a tiny feast to create a celebration from any simple afternoon. That may be exactly what makes afternoon tea so popular.